Batik and Lurik Woven Cloth Made from Natural Dyes
Posted on | June 23, 2011 | 2 Comments
Now the artisan return to their reflected shine, seems like they find the sun for their livelihoods.
The earthquake that happened in Yogyakarta and its surroundings, in 2006, still remains in our memory. Loss of physical, mental, and material, indeed became the victim’s sufferings. The most important thing, the wheels of the earth can not just stop. Psychological and economic recovery of the victims continue to be done. JRF under the management of World Bank gives financial support to approximately 3,000 small and micro-businesses in Yogyakarta through Livelihoods Recovery Programme IOM-JRF.
A few days ago, Kabare got an opportunity to follow a visit to the artisan’s village under IOM organization in Tegalsari village- Sukoharjo Regency and Kebon Village and Banyuripan in Bayat Klaten regency, Central Java. From that place, it can be concluded that the ability and willingness could not be stopped by anything. In Tegalsari village, the artisan of Lurik woven cloth ‘Sari Alam’ using Non Woven Machine Tools (ATBM). The manufacturing process is closed to traditional way with natural dyes from Mahogany wood, Ijolawe, Tegeran, Tingi, and Jambal. The use of natural material give a different impression of this handicraft.
The making of Lurik woven cloth is very complicated and requires a high level of patience. Cotton yarn is dyed to get the natural colors by first determining the motif that will be created. Next, the locking color or vensasi is done to create a solid color on the yarn using alum, lime and tunjung. All the materials produce in varies locking color. Furthermore, spin the yarns that have been dried in the sun in small coils (spools and palet)
Sekir, the most complicated process, in which the arrangement of 1750 strands of thin yarn (sekir) to produce a certain motif of Lurik woven cloth in width of 70 cm. The next process is nyucuk. After the basic motif is arranged in sekir equipment, pakan then moved to the weaving tools. Last process is the weaving itself using ATBM.
The process of making Batik is also an interesting to observe. From the boiling process of the cloth for hours (called process of mordan), then get the cloth dried in the wind. After that the process of ‘drawing a pattern on cloth (coret). Continuing with the process of canthing to cover the pattern with wax (malam) and then the coloring process. The last process is pelorotan to release malam on the cloth.
The classical and contemporary motifs made in Kebon Indah. As Mukti, Wahyu, Gajah Birowo, Babon Angrem, Sido Luhur and motif combinations. While the motif in Banyuripan is more abstract, like a motif of Kupu- kupu, Daun Ketela and Kupu Taman. The three of this artisan’s group of specialist in batik and Lurik woven cloth producing of natural dye. As the village of artisan who potentially develop Batik and Lurik handicrafts as the nation’s cultural heritage, this handicraft could revive the handicraft center in Klaten. In future, these artisans groups will cooperate with Dinas Koperasi Perindustrian dan Perdagangan, Badan Perencanaan Pembangunan Daerah (BAPEDA) for the sustainability of potential labor and marketing products.
Mei Ratri; Foto: Budi Prast
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